Monday, September 30th, 2013
Itâs hot. By 9 a.m., a dusty desert film radiates hazy stillness over thirsty fields of produce. The air is dry as static, and temperatures are well on their way to a blistering peak of 103 degrees in the desert town of El Centro, California, 13 miles from the Mexican border. But Beiquan Mou, a research geneticist with the U.S Department of Agriculture, is buoyant, because his acre-wide field of green and purple lettuce is thriving in these oven-like conditions.
Lettuce is a delicate mistress; it must be coddled and kept below 85 degrees or it will struggle â bad news for Americaâs salads, as scientists claim climate change is poised to turn central California, home to the nationâs âsalad bowl,â into a dust bowl by the end of the century. Most of the year, 60 percent of all the lettuce Americans consume grows in the Salinas Valley, 500 miles from here, cooled by the Pacific breeze. Temperatures there hover at an average of 68 degrees. In El Centro, highs of 106 are not unusual. And that is why Mou is here. Someday, much of Americaâs prime agricultural land will be subject to the same weather conditions that conspired to make 2012 the hottest year on record in the continental U.S. Over the course of this century, North America will see longer periods of extreme heat. Farmers could see annual losses of $5 billion or more.
Mou, tall and serious in a round straw hat, armed with clipboard and pen, is picking thick, green heads of iceberg and juicy-looking romaine in leaf-wilting heat. âThe Margarita looks good,â he says, touching a tender butterhead cultivar, blooming in the cracked roseate sand.
Since 2010, Mou has been on an epic quest for the worldâs most heat-tolerant lettuces. Backed by a three-year federal grant, part of a $38 million effort to cope with climate change, he has growtested more than 3,500 varieties of lettuce and spinach in a heat chamber laboratory, exposing them to scorching temperatures and recording the results. The goal: Identify the hardiest species, and isolate their survival genes.
Someday, hopefully, the winners of this gladiatorial death match will wind up on salad plates. The lettuce of the future may look and taste the same, but thanks to the research Mou has begun, its DNA will contain a heat-resistant gene to help farmers cultivate it pretty much anywhere â even the desert.
By late May, Mouâs 84 finalists â 28 icebergs, 28 romaines and 28 butterheads â are ready to be picked and analyzed. They even have superhero names like Gladiator, Jericho, Sniper and Invader. Crouching in pristine, button-down ensembles, Mou and his assistant pile lettuce heads into containers and carry them back to their shade tent. They weigh them, test their firmness, split them open and measure their cores, taking note of tip burn and leaf stress.
Many of Mouâs plants have grown into mutant parodies of supermarket lettuce. Some green-leaf varieties are more than a foot wide with heads bigger than wedding bouquets. Others have cooked in the sun so long they look like burnt marshmallows.
The weirdest-looking lettuces have shot their stems 2Ăł feet into the air, growing leaves in the shape of Christmas trees. Called âbolting,â this is a survival tactic in which lettuce under heat stress tries to flower quickly in an attempt to reproduce.
But Mouâs lettuce has to do more than look good. He bites into a tasty-looking iceberg cultivar called Glacier and makes a face. It is piercingly bitter. âIn the Salinas Valley, that one tastes just fine,â he says, shaking his head. He uses his knife to slit open a neighboring iceberg. He nods in approval. Itâs sweet. It will take trial and error to produce a lettuce that is both hardy and tasty.
Global warming will dictate the worldâs salad bar selection in the not-so-distant future, and Mou isnât the only one rushing to condition our unprepared produce.
One of the USDAâs top objectives in coming years is to identify crop varieties with the most resilient all-weather genes. In addition to Mouâs work, USDA plant physiologists in North Carolina are looking for soybean cultivars that can tolerate elevated ozone and carbon dioxide levels. In Wisconsin, scientists are adapting cranberries to unexpected frost snaps â another regional effect of climate change. In Maryland, researchers are studying crops that deliver better yields with higher levels of carbon dioxide.
Mou wonât have results until 2014. But finding the worldâs first superlettuce is only half the challenge. It will take time â and money â to find a way to crossbreed the lettuce genotypes with other existing strains. Charles Walthall, acting deputy administrator of the USDAâs Natural Resources and Sustainable Agriculture Systems program, says industry leaders like Monsanto are already focused on similar research. Syngenta, for example, has taken an interest in Mouâs study, and sent representatives to one of his lettuce fields.
If all goes well, our lettuce may be more primed than we are to survive the hot, dry times ahead.
âYou think this is hot?â laughs Mou, sweating. âMaybe every day in the future will be this hot.â
Tags: agriculture, Beiquan Mou, carbon dioxide, extreme heat, farming, global warming, Julia Scott, lettuce, Modern Farmer, Monsanto, Salinas Valley, science, USDA Natural Resources and Sustainable Agriculure
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